SUMMER REGISTRATION IS NOW OPEN
CLASS DESCRIPTIONS
Spring SESSION
Mondays and Tuesdays, March 28 through May 17, 2022
Construction I • Construction II • Advanced Construction I
Sleeves • Moulage • Lines
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Bio
Suzy Furrer has over 35 years’ experience in the fashion industry. She began her career as a freelance patternmaker in 1988. Suzy is the Founder and Director of Apparel Arts (established 1996) and Apparel Arts Productions, an online fashion design school (established in 2020). Apparel Arts has graduated hundreds of students who currently work in the apparel or costuming industries. In addition, she has been an instructor for GAP Inc.’s Product Development Immersion Program. Suzy has taught classes for the employees of entertainment giants Pixar and Lucas Films. Suzy is the author of Building Patterns, and has taught online pattern drafting classes for Craftsy.com since 2011.
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Hey, over here… aside from sewing and patternmaking, what else do I do for fun? I love interior design. (I recently completed a top to bottom renovation of a cabin my awesomely creative parents built in 1965) and I am helping my sister move into and decorate a swoon-worthy 1940’s gem; I equally love art (my dream is to make time in my schedule to be a docent for SFMoma - soon, I hope!); I love going to the ballet (my daughter is a ballet dancer - I am in awe! What a mix of art, history, and athleticism); and I am a happy nerd who loves to read.
SEWING CLASSES
Construction I
Instructor:
Suzy Furrer
Students are introduced to proper sewing techniques such as how to sew and press a seam, how to choose the right needle, thread and presser foot for the project, how to sew darts, insert slot and invisible zippers, edge stitching, top stitching and understitching, how to sew a point and a corner, how to sew a flat-felled and French seam, how to sew on a button and create a buttonhole and more. Students will create a sample binder of about 24 techniques aided by written and in-class instruction. Expect about 2 hours of homework between classes.
Prerequisite: Students should have access to a sewing machine and should be able to wind a bobbin, thread the machine and sew a simple straight stitch successfully. ​
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Construction II
Instructor:
Suzy Furrer
Students learn more sewing techniques such as how to sew a lap zipper and exposed zipper, sew a bound buttonhole, clean finish a hem, miter a corner, sew a sleeve placket, ease a sleeve cap, how to cover a snap, advanced hand stitches and more. Students will continue adding to the sample binder created in Construction I with more techniques aided by written and in-class instruction.
Expect about 2 hours of homework between classes. instruction.
Prerequisite: Construction I​
Advanced Construction I
Instructor:
Suzy Furrer
Join us for the Advanced Sewing Series and elevate your sewing skill level. In Advanced Construction I, we start by tackling denim - proper needle and thread choices for denim, how to sew flat-felled seams, top stitching considerations, sewing a zipper fly, sewing a button fly, sewing a jeans pocket, belt loops, hardware application and more. In the second half of the course, we switch to leather or faux leather and discuss pattern layout options, needle and thread consideration, and sew samples of seams, bound buttonholes, reinforced buttons, and a zipper pocket.
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Prerequisite: An intermediate sewing skill level is required.
Advanced Construction II
Instructor:
Suzy Furrer
In Advanced Construction II we continue learning to tame difficult fabrics. This time the focus is on Silk Charmeuse, Silk Chiffon and Velvet. Students will work with chiffon and silk charmeuse on straight grain and bias, learning about proper needle and thread choices, controlling bias, how to sew seams and seam finishes, sewing in a zipper, interfacing choices and hemming. In the second half of the course, we switch to learning how to cut and control velvet, different closure options, seams and seam finishes, buttonholes and more.
Prerequisite: Construction I and II or intermediate sewing skill level
PATTERN DRAFTING CLASSES
Pattern Drafting I Fundamentals - Skirts
Instructor:
Suzy Furrer
The first in our series of pattern drafting classes focuses on enabling students to become proficient in skirt pattern drafting, fit and construction. Drafting and sewing skirts is the easiest subject to build solid foundational skill-building habits in both pattern drafting and construction. Students draft, sew and fit a skirt sloper for themselves or a dress form. Students also complete a production ready pattern and sew a fashion fabric A-line skirt with a waistband, pocket and a zipper closure.
Expect 2-3 hours of homework between classes.
Required Text: Building Patterns, The Architecture of Women’s Clothing, by Suzy Furrer.
Prerequisite: none
Pattern Drafting II - Moulage (Basic Bodice Sloper)
Instructor:
Suzy Furrer
The goal of the second class in the pattern drafting series is to learn to draft and sew a moulage (a fabric mold of the torso) which is a precursor to drafting a basic bodice sloper. A sloper is used as a starting template or block pattern to draft any upper body garment such as a shirt, dress, jacket or coat. Drafting for the female form is the focus, but instruction is given for drafting a menswear sloper as well. Students are also instructed on how to draft a knit bodice sloper. Expect 2-3 hours of homework between classes.
Required Text: Building Patterns, The Architecture of Women’s Clothing, by Suzy Furrer.
Prerequisite: Pattern Drafting I or equivalent skill in drafting and sewing
Pattern Drafting III - Dart Manipulation
Instructor:
Suzy Furrer
After Pattern Drafting I and II, students can go out of order moving forward, but dart manipulation is a logical next step. Dart manipulation is the art of moving dart equivalent style lines around a bodice to create different designs. Students learn how to transfer multiple bodice darts into French darts, Y-darts, gathers, pleats, cowls and more. Instruction is given on how to manipulate the back shoulder and waist darts and how to pivot darts. Students are required to draft and sew a garment using the skills acquired in Pattern Drafting I, II and III. Expect 2-3 hours of homework between classes.
Required Text: Building Patterns, The Architecture of Women’s Clothing, by Suzy Furrer.
Prerequisite: Pattern Drafting II - Moulage or have a bodice sloper. A beginner sewing skill level is required.
Pattern Drafting IV - Lines
Instructor:
Suzy Furrer
Lines refers to both interior seam lines in a garment as well as the silhouette of a garment. Students use their basic bodice sloper and move through drafting and sewing five different styles of princess lines, an empire line, A-line, trapeze, chemise and double-breasted. Students are required to design and draft a production ready pattern using the skills they have learned thus far and include one (or more) of the lines exercises. Sewing the drafted pattern in fashion fabric is encouraged. Expect 2-3 hours of homework between classes.
Required Text: Building Patterns, The Architecture of Women’s Clothing, by Suzy Furrer.
Prerequisite: Pattern Drafting II (Moulage)
Pattern Drafting V - Necklines
Instructor:
Suzy Furrer
Students can go out of order after Pattern Drafting I and II, but taking necklines is a logical next step after dart manipulation and lines. Pattern Drafting V teaches how to keep necklines from gaping or falling off the shoulders. Exercises include boat necklines, strapless, funnel and opera necklines, V-necklines, sweetheart, scoop, portrait necklines and more. Students are instructed on both drafting and sewing. They are required to design a dress and draft a production ready pattern which includes one of the neckline exercises. Expect 2-3 hours of homework between classes.
Required Text: Building Patterns, The Architecture of Women’s Clothing, by Suzy Furrer.
Prerequisite: PD II (Moulage), PD III (Dart Manipulation)
Pattern Drafting VI - Collars
Instructor:
Suzy Furrer
Pattern Drafting VI gives instruction on how to draft a variety of collars and button plackets. Exercises include standard button placket, hidden button placket, camp collar, collar with band, shawl collar, roll collar on a V-neckline, notched collar and more. Students are taught both drafting and sewing. Each student is required to design a garment of their choosing with a button placket and collar and include a production ready pattern. Sewing in fashion fabric is encouraged. Expect 2-3 hours of homework between classes.
Required Text: Building Patterns, The Architecture of Women’s Clothing, by Suzy Furrer.
Prerequisite: PD II (Moulage), PD III (Dart Manipulation), PD IV (Lines)
Pattern Drafting VII - Sleeves
Instructor:
Suzy Furrer
Pattern Drafting VII involves drafting and sewing a variety of sleeves. Exercises include basic sleeve sloper, tailor sleeve, two piece sleeve with vent, sleeve with placket, pleats and cuff, short, puff, bell and cap sleeves, how to line a sleeve and more. Students are instructed on both the drafting and sewing of sleeves. Expect 2-3 hours of homework between classes.
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Required Text: Building Patterns, The Architecture of Women’s Clothing, by Suzy Furrer.
Prerequisite: PD II (Moulage), PD III (Dart Manipulation), PD IV (Lines), PD VI (Collars)
Pattern Drafting VIII - Pockets
Instructor:
Suzy Furrer
Pattern Drafting VIII is all about drafting and sewing pockets. Exercises include a series of patch pockets, a series of in-seam pockets and of course, a series of welt pockets. Information on drafting, sewing, interfacing and linings are included. Each student is required to design a product like an apron, tool belt, grocery bag or a garment of their choosing which includes at least 3 pockets. Include a production ready pattern and the sewing should be in fashion fabric. Expect 2-3 hours of homework between classes.
Required Text: Building Patterns, The Architecture of Women’s Clothing, by Suzy Furrer.
Prerequisite: PD I (Fundamentals - Skirts)
Pattern Drafting IX - Pants
Instructor:
Allison Page
Pattern Drafting IX teaches students how to measure, calculate, draft, sew and fit a basic pant sloper which can be used as a template or block for most any pant exercise going forward. Instruction is also given on how to draft a trouser sloper and jean sloper. Each student is encouraged to use the slopers developed in the class to design and draft a pant of their choosing using the exercises in Building Patterns.
Expect 2-3 hours of homework between classes.
Required Text: Building Patterns, The Architecture of Women’s Clothing, by Suzy Furrer.
Prerequisite: An advanced beginner sewing skill level is required.
FASHION DESIGN CLASSES
Fashion History/Design Principles
Instructor:
Suzy Furrer
Fashion History takes us through 100+ years of western fashion while recognizing the social, cultural, political and financial implications on fashion at the time. Get acquainted with prominent designers through the decades. By studying the past, we will gain a greater understanding of the present and future direction of fashion. Students will also participate in weekly exercises to develop their own design aesthetic. Expect 2-3 hours of homework between classes.
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Prerequisite: None
Manufacturing Practices/Tech Packs
Instructor:
Suzy Furrer
A tech pack is a set of forms that guide a garment from design to factory production. Forms include a design sheet, fabric and trim sheets, construction sheet, spec sheet, cost sheet, a marker for pattern layout, and a sew-by sample. Students learn the value of a tech pack, how to interpret one and how to write one by choosing one of their own patterns as a basis for creating a tech pack, a sew-by sample and a production ready pattern – all necessary skills when seeking a job in the industry or to further one’s understanding of how a garment goes from design to the selling floor.
Expect 2-3 hours of homework between classes.
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Prerequisite: Copying Ready to Wear, or have a drafted production-ready pattern from a self-designed garment. An intermediate sewing skill level is required.
Copying Ready To Wear (CRTW)
Instructor:
Suzy Furrer
Students in CRTW learn how to copy existing garments. This is a necessary skill for those looking for a career in costuming or as a patternmaker in the ready-to-wear industry. This class will also greatly benefit the home sewist. Who doesn’t have that favorite garment that needs an update or to be re-sized? Students will copy 3 garments of their choosing using a variety of methods. They will create the patterns, sew mock-ups or sew-by samples and learn to produce production ready patterns. Expect 3-4 hours of homework between classes.
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Prerequisite: Some patternmaking and sewing experience.
Grading (Sizing Patterns)
Instructor:
Suzy Furrer
Students learn to hand grade (size) patterns up one size and down once size. Learning the principles of grading gives the student a clear understanding of how patterns are graded in the apparel industry. Students grade a skirt, pant, short bodice, long torso, sleeve, collar and pocket (these patterns are provided). Detailed information on how to work with a grader is presented as are discussions grading in the fashion industry. Expect 1-2 hours of homework between classes.
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Prerequisite: some patternmaking experience
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*THIS IS AN OUTLIER CLASS THAT WILL BE FOUR 1.5 HOUR SESSIONS & $145
SKILL BUILDING CLASSES
Tailoring I - Drafting the Jacket/Coat
Most tailored jackets/coats have about 20 to 30 pattern pieces and about three times that many components. This class focuses on drafting the jacket/coat outer pieces and getting the perfect fit through muslin mockups, how to draft the interior support pattern pieces as well as the lining pattern pieces. Discussions on the best fabric choices will be included along with advice on where to source support fabric. Students will have a well-fitting jacket/coat pattern ready to cut for Tailoring II. Expect 2-3 hours of homework between classes.
Prerequisite: A well-fitting bodice sloper and some pattern drafting experience.
Tailoring II - Constructing the Jacket/Coat
Learn to properly construct a jacket or coat with impeccable results. This class focuses on building the inside support pieces, pressing techniques, sewing welt pockets, notched collars, bound buttonholes, linings and more. Patterns need to be drafted, fit and cut before the class (see Tailoring I: Drafting the Jacket/Coat). Required Text: Tailoring - The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket, by Creative Publishing International. Expect 3-4 hours of homework between classes.
Prerequisite: Tailoring I: Drafting the Jacket/Coat. Intermediate sewing skill level.
Textiles
Students of fashion design will benefit from understanding different fibers, yarn types, woven vs. knit fabrics, dyes and finishes. Textiles will focus on all of that while teaching how to recognize, name and understand apparel textiles. Students will receive a swatch kit of over 140 fabrics as well as worksheets and exercises to deepen their understanding of textiles and current market trends. This class will benefit the beginner to advanced student.
Expect 2 hours of homework between classes.
Prerequisite: None